Quick Takeaways
- This post documents winter 2022, when incoming winemaker Ludovic Dervin and outgoing winemaker Christophe Paubert worked side by side to blend the 2022 vintage together.
- Barrels are "topped off" roughly every six weeks to replace wine lost to evaporation, known as the "angel's share."
- "Racking and returning" clarifies the wine and clears sediment from the barrel before the wine goes back to rest.
- Napa Valley winemakers broadly referred to 2022 as "the tale of two harvests," both for the growing season's split character and, at Stags' Leap Winery, for its literal handoff between two winemakers.
While the vineyard rests through the winter months, the cellar is anything but quiet. Here's what was happening behind the scenes at Stags' Leap Winery during the winter of 2022, a season that carried extra significance as the estate's winemaking passed from one generation to the next.
Topping Up
Barrels need to be topped off one by one roughly every six weeks. Because oak is porous, wine naturally evaporates through the staves over time, a phenomenon known as the "angel's share." That lost volume has to be replaced promptly so the barrel stays completely full and free of oxygen. Some air exchange is beneficial and contributes to a wine's developing character, but too much can interfere with the natural flavors of the fruit.
Racking and Returning
To clarify the wine and prevent reductive off-flavors, barrels go through a process called racking and returning. The wine is emptied from the barrel into a tank, the barrel is washed to clear out sediment that's collected at the bottom, and the wine is then pumped back in to continue its rest.
Blending the 2022 Vintage, Together
That winter, our winemaking team was preparing the blends for the 2022 vintage under unusual circumstances: two winemakers, one harvest. Incoming Senior Winemaker and General Manager Ludovic Dervin and outgoing winemaker Christophe Paubert worked side by side to complete the transition without losing a step in style or quality.
Dervin described it this way:
"Most winemakers in Napa Valley are referring to the 2022 harvest as 'the tale of two harvests,' making it one of the most unique vintages in recent history. Stags' Leap Winery's 2022 harvest definitely fits the profile of a unique harvest of two winemakers, since Christophe and I worked hand-in-hand to ensure a smooth passing of the baton and transfer of know-how to maintain the style and quality of Stags' Leap wines for many years to come!"
That collaborative blending work helped ensure the 2022 vintage, and every vintage since, still carries the estate's signature style forward.
Curious what this looks like from the winemaker's side more broadly? Meet Ludovic Dervin or explore our Winemaking philosophy.
Winter 2022 Cellar Work at a Glance
| Task | Frequency | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Topping off barrels | About every 6 weeks | Replace evaporated wine (the "angel's share") and keep barrels oxygen-free |
| Racking and returning | As needed through winter | Clarify wine and clear sediment from the barrel |
| Blending the 2022 vintage | Winter 2022 | Complete the winemaker handoff while finalizing the 2022 vintage's blend |
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the "angel's share" in winemaking? It's the portion of wine lost to evaporation through a barrel's porous oak staves over time. Winemakers replace this lost volume regularly by "topping off" the barrel.
What does "racking and returning" mean? It's the process of emptying wine from a barrel into a tank so the barrel can be cleaned of sediment, then returning the wine to the barrel to continue aging.
When does blending happen at Stags' Leap Winery? Blending decisions for each new vintage are primarily made in the winter months following that year's harvest. In winter 2022, that work carried extra weight, since it also marked the handoff between outgoing winemaker Christophe Paubert and incoming winemaker Ludovic Dervin.
Who led the 2022 harvest and blend at Stags' Leap Winery? Both Christophe Paubert and Ludovic Dervin, working together through the transition, with Dervin taking over as Senior Winemaker and General Manager going forward.
Who leads winemaking at Stags' Leap Winery? Ludovic Dervin, Senior Winemaker and General Manager, leads the estate's winemaking and blending decisions.
